A crawl space is generally that area under the floor framing of a house or business that extends a short way to the bottom. The distance is generally 24 inches in depth. This distance can vary however from 8 inches to 36 inches. The floor is usually made of dirt. There usually is barely enough room in one of these spaces to crawl, so the term Crawl Space was invented. They usually have a ton of spider webs and are dark and smell of mold. Not a pleasant place. That’s where we come in.

A crawl space that is deeper, to about 48 to 60 inches is generally called a “Michigan Basement”. These can be paved with concrete or left as dirt. Michigan Basements are used as storage of stuff. Unfortunately they are usually below ground and are susceptible to water damage. Furnaces down here can also be damaged by water. This is where we come in….

A space below the floor boards that is 7 feet deep or more is called a basement. Basements 100 years ago were not paved but were paved with concrete back in the 50’s. This was usually a thin layer just to keep the dust down and feet clean. Finishing basements has come to popularity with the invention and use of the “Sump Pump”. This is a device that can pump out any ground water that would otherwise get on the basement floor. Other wise basements are a good place to store stuff. We do a lot of work in basements and have a web site just for basement waterproofing. Click here to see Basement Waterproofing Michigan.

Oakbridge Construction Waterproofing Division knows a lot about basements and Crawl Spaces. This web site is dedicated to the Crawl Space. Read on to find out more information. If you don’t have time to read call now at 248 522 1516 and get a free estimate.

I believe that it has something to do with the recent economy. People are a bit troubled to splurge any money to get things fixed up while they can’t perceive where their next dollar is coming from. Even people that are on a fixed income like SSI or SSD or Social Security plus company retirement fund. Those people’s income should not differ month to month too much but yet they are nervous. Ordinary working people are as well scared stiff. So these tasks also sit and languish and the MOLD takes over.

We just completed a pretty big job in a basement that there was a waterproofing concern and it went unfixed for the last few years. All the bottom molding was black, the wallboard was black up 2 feet off the floor and the carpet had a thousand mushrooms rising on it. I believe that this severe of damage is dangerous to the people living upstairs. I recognize it was bad for our workers and we dressed them correspondingly.

The finished basement had to be disposed of. Along with the carpet and molding and doors and drywall and the whole thing else. Then we completed the waterproofing. That consisted of a perimeter drain and a sump pump. That was a lot of work. It cost a lot also and created an bad living condition for the home owner. If it was fixed just after it begun we could have saved the finished basement part except for the carpet. That should have saved a quite a bit of dough.

Components
All sump pump systems include the same five components, although they vary in size based on the amount of water they are required to handle.
In the United States, components are fairly consistent. For residential applications, they consist of:
1. A plastic or metal sump liner, either 18 or 24 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 feet deep.
2. A pump, usually 1/3 or 1/2 horsepower and powered by either at 12-volt DC battery or standard 120-volt AC current.
3. A discharge pipe, typically 1 ½ inch PVC.
4. A check valve to ensure the water in the discharge pipe doesn’t flow backwards back into the sump;
5. A cover to keep vermin, pets, and debris out of the sump.

Sizing
Pump Size: A properly sized pump is critical. Too small and it won’t be able to keep up with water flowing into the sump. Too large and it creates unnecessary expense. An oversized pump will also “short-cycle,” turning on and off in rapid succession, which leads to premature pump failure. So getting the right pump is an important first step to ensuring basements stay dry.
“It’s important that your pump can draw water out of the basin (or “sump pit”) faster than water flows into it,” notes Duane Friend, at the University of Illinois Extension Office. “Therefore, the first thing you need to measure is the amount of water that drains into the basin during a high-flow period. During a heavy rain, stick a ruler in the basin and measure how many inches of water flow into the basin in 60 seconds.”
With an 18-inch sump, each inch of deepness equals one gallon. In a 24-inch-diameter basin, each inch is roughly 2 gallons.
In a new construction situation, approximate flow rates can be calculated based on rainfall averages, soil type and the size of a home’s footprint.
Once the volume of water that will need to be removed has been calculated, the installer will need to figure out the “total dynamic head” of the discharge pipe. This is the sum of the “static head” (the height in feet between the pump and the end of the discharge pipe) and the “friction head.” Friction head is calculated based on the length, diameter and material of the discharge pipe, and the number of turns involved. A table to calculate friction head is available on the www.waterproofmag.com website.
Knowing the maximum flow rate figures, the total dynamic head pressure involved, and the budget, the contractor or designer can determine the best pump for the application.
Basin Size: The size of the sump pit is also significant, as it plays a part in how long the pump runs and how long it takes to fill up. If the basin fills too quickly it may be best to install a larger one.
If the basement is already finished, a cheaper option may be to raise the height of the pump switch, basically making the sump deeper. This method, however, also increases the chances the sump will overflow, so be careful.

Power Supply
Direct-Wired: Almost all sump pumps run on standard 120 volt AC current, but the pump must be supplied with its own line from the breaker box. It must also have a dedicated breaker. In most areas, the power supply must be installed by a licensed electrician unless the installer is also the homeowner. As always, check with community building codes and ordinances.
Pumps are usually hard wired into the electrical system, rather than plugged into a conventional outlet.
Battery-Powered: Sump pumps face their highest loads during thunderstorms, when rainwater pours into the sump pit from the foundation drainage system. Unfortunately, thunderstorms can also disrupt a home’s power supply, knocking the pump offline at the time it is needed most. That’s why some homes-especially those with finished basements-have a second battery-powered sump pump in case the first pump fails. In a few areas of the country, where the sump pit only fills infrequently, battery-operated pumps are used as the primary.

The SmartHome sump pump is a next-generation battery-operated sump pump. It is self-testing, self-diagnosing, and will immediate notify the owner by telephone and email if a component stops functioning.

Setting up a battery-powered secondary pump involves purchasing and installing the following components in parallel with the others:
A 12-volt DC sump pump matching the flow and discharge requirements of the primary pump.
A 12-volt DC lead-acid battery. A typical automobile battery is adequate. Some use marine-grade deep cycle batteries which are more expensive, but lasts longer.
A “trickle-charge” battery charger to keep the lead acid battery fully charged.
A separate water level sensor, check valve, and other components. The discharge pipes usually connect downstream of the check valves.
“One of the problems with most backup sump systems is they are rarely used so a component failure will not be noticed and the system will fail to operate when needed,” says Friend.
A few battery-powered pump systems have an integral computer that tests the system periodically and sounds an alarm if something needs to be replaced-like a “check engine” light on a car.
Regardless, Friend recommends that backup systems be tested monthly. “A good time to test is just after a rain storm,” he says. “Pull the plug on the sump pump so the sump well fills and verify the backup system activates and empties the well.”
Water-Driven: Recently, a few manufacturers have begun offering sump pumps that use the home’s culinary water supply to power the pump. The pressure in the home’s main water line turns an impellor, which drives the pump. These devices abolish the need for electricity entirely. They do cost more than motor-driven pumps, but because they don’t need a back-up pump, they can be cost-effective.
Regardless of the type of pump installed, plan on also using a simple battery-powered water alarm. The water sensor is attached to the sump liner a few inches below floor level and will sound a shrill alarm if the water level rises that tall.

The discharge pipe should stop as far from the house as possible. Here, it has been routed to a dry well, with perforated pipe and gravel to improve drainage.

For the reason that pedestal pumps sit above floor level, they are usually hidden from sight in finished basements. This can be a purpose-built enclosure, or by building the sump in a closet or furnace room.

Pump Type
Regardless of the type of power supply, sump pumps are usually divided into two classifications, pedestal and submersible.
Pedestal pumps are mounted on top of the pit, where it is more easily serviced, but also more conspicuous. Submersible pumps sit inside the sump-usually near the bottom-and are completely immersed in the water.
The decision is usually based on whether the basement is finished, or will be, as the submersible pump is less obtrusive.
In commercial applications, submersible pumps are largely common, as they funtion on a different principle. Unlike pedestal pumps that “suck” water up from the sump like soda thorugh a straw, submersible pumps “push” water up the pipe.
Discharge Pipe
The discharge pipe should end as far from the house as possible, to prevent the water from getting it’s way back underneath the foundation.
In decades past, the pipe was often connected to the sanitary sewer routine. This practice is now outlawed as it can overpower the water treatment facilities. Be aware that if you are retrofitting an older home, codes and ordinances may require you to also deflect the discharge line.

248 522 1516  - Bob